Ever Worn Something That Just Felt… Off?
We’ve all been there. You try on a tee or jacket, and something about it just doesn’t feel right. Maybe it rides up, pulls weird at the shoulder, or the neckline feels like it’s strangling you. It’s not always the size—it’s often the garment cut.
The way a piece is shaped—its structure, fit, and how it sits on your body—is what we mean when we say “garment cut.” It’s kind of like the secret recipe that decides whether your clothes feel fab or fail.
So, let’s break down what you can do if the cut feels wrong—and how to find a better one, especially when you’re creating clothes for your customers.
The Jacket That Started It All
Before Pattern Room was even an idea, I worked as a garment technician sending tech packs overseas. As a garment Technician you very rarely have an opportunity to make a pattern. You make a tech pack and this is sent overseas to the factory where you are reliant on the quality of the pattern maker there to understand the tips and tricks for a pattern to feel right on the body. It was my job to check the garment against the spec, communicate alterations and move the garment along towards its delivery date.
I remember one project so clearly—a beautiful merino wool fleece jacket. The pattern matched the spec. Everything looked good on paper. But when the samples came back? Something just wasn’t right.
I kept sending emails, marking up changes, trying to explain exactly what felt off. I knew what needed adjusting, but no matter how I phrased it, it never truly improved. It didn’t sit right on the body. The garment cut was just… off.
That expensive jacket still hangs in our workroom today. Not because it’s a great sample, but because it’s the reason Pattern Room exists. It’s a constant reminder that a good spec isn’t enough—you need a garment that’s been tested, fitted, and truly designed to work in real life. That’s what a great garment cut does.
What Is Garment Cut, Really?
The garment cut is basically how the template has been made to cut the fabric so it has shaped to create a certain fit. It’s more than just size—it’s about proportions, angles, seams, and balance. You might also hear it called the “fit,” “shape,” or “silhouette.”
And that’s where so many businesses get stuck—bad patterns, or poor cut leads to bad fits, unhappy customers, and wasted money.
Why the Wrong Garment Cut Can Ruin Everything
Here’s a hot tip: if your top feels like it’s falling backwards, it’s probably because the shoulder seam is sitting in the wrong place. Sounds small, but it changes everything about the feel and flow of a piece.
A bad garment cut doesn’t just annoy people—it makes them avoid wearing the piece altogether. That means more returns, more complaints, and more landfill. Ouch.
But don’t stress. Once you know how to spot what’s off, you can start to fix it.
How to Spot a Problem with Garment Cut
So your customer tries on a top and says it “doesn’t feel right.” Instead of guessing, ask these simple questions:
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How’s the fit at the waist and chest?
If these don’t feel good, you might need to change the circumference of the body -
Neckline choking you or slipping off?
That’s a sure sign of a balance issue in the upper garment cut. -
How do the sleeves sit?
Is the armhole too high? Too low? Tight? Saggy? Does the sleeve feel like a different Fit or Cut to the body. The sleeve cut can mess up the whole vibe. -
Does it feel balanced on your body?
This is as simple as, would you wear this and not notice anything in particular
Start at the core of the body and work your way out: chest and waist, then armhole and sleeve, then neck and hem. It’s like solving a puzzle piece by piece.
How to Choose the Right Garment Cut (Without the Guesswork)
Here’s the fun part—you don’t need to start from scratch. On our Pattern Room site, we’ve got over 125,000 different versions of a t-shirt. That’s not a typo.
You start by picking a base garment cut that suits your customer. Then layer in the extras: armhole type, sleeve length, neckline style, hem shape. It’s like choosing your burger toppings after getting the bun right.
Key shapes to think about:
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Fit around the body – is it relaxed, slim, or snug? This is called “ease.”
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Armhole shape – choose between a set-in or raglan sleeve.
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Sleeve length and shape – short, long, cap, or something custom.
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Neck design – crew, V-neck, scoop. Balance matters!
Once your base cut is spot-on, the rest becomes way easier.
Common Garment Cut Mistakes (and How to Avoid Them)
Mistakes with garment cut usually start with one of these:
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Copying someone else’s garment without checking balance.
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Trusting offshore factories to figure it out from a tech pack.
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Guessing sizes and hoping for the best.
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Working with a pattern maker who is not up to scratch
Here’s a test: lay a garment flat on the table. If the shoulder seam lands right at the fold line, that’s usually a sign it’s not balanced correctly. That garment’s probably going to feel like it’s pulling backward when worn.
Better to use patterns that have been pre-tested and fitted by someone who’s already made the mistakes for you (yep, that’s us!).
Garment Cut Affects Everything—Even Sales
If it doesn’t fit, it won’t sell. It’s as simple as that.
No matter how cool your print is or how nice the fabric feels, a bad garment cut turns people off. And if it’s a sportswear item, like a netball dress or a cycling jersey, then cut is king. These garments need to move with the body—not against it.
Get the cut right, and you’ll:
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Have fewer complaints
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Get better reviews
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Keep customers coming back
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Reduce waste
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Save money on samples and remakes
Sounds like a win all around, right?
Want Help Picking the Right Garment Cut?
You don’t have to figure it all out on your own. At Pattern Room, we’ve already done the hard work—testing, adjusting, and perfecting the fit. You can jump straight to production with patterns that feel great and work every time.
Whether you’re printing team jerseys, creating a new fashion range, or fixing an annoying fit issue, we’ve got something for you in our library.
And if you’re not sure where to start, just ask. We love talking cut, fit, and fabric (almost as much as we love our morning cuppa).
Final Thought: It’s Not Just the Size—It’s the Cut
Remember, a garment can be the “right size” and still feel all wrong. It’s the garment cut that brings the magic. If you can learn to spot bad cuts and choose better ones, you’ll create clothes people want to wear again and again.
This also means you can not just go up a size as the core problem will still exist and the other details can make it look oversized.
And that’s not just good for business—it’s good for the planet too.
💬 Need a better fit for your next range?
Browse our pattern library or message us—we’ll help you find a garment cut that makes your customers feel amazing.
